Week 534 · Auckland · Rangitoto Island · Glowing Plankton
I am posting this from the Auckland Airport — checked in having accomplished the primary objective on this trip: leaving on time. Except for the day down to Waitomo Caves and Rotorua, I stayed local in Auckland. Auckland is a major city — larger than I was expecting, and much closer in size and vibe to Brisbane than Christchurch, with about 1/3 of New Zealand's population living here.
The weather was generally rainy and sunny with strong winds. The first couple of days I mostly worked and did the hop-on/hop-off bus and Sky Tower. The Sky Tower did have a unique attraction — the Sky Jump. Not a bungee jump but a controlled fall, like going down a very fast elevator: the free fall was about 10 feet then constant speed to the bottom (no bounce up). But it was closed due to high winds — something I'd consider in the future. Because of the weather, I would check the forecast each evening and plan the following day. For Saturday I booked an America's Cup sailing cruise and a night ocean kayak trek to see glowing plankton.
I got a notice Saturday that the original sailing trip had cancelled due to winds. Too windy and rainy for a bike ride — so I went to the New Zealand Maritime Museum in the harbour. It was well-rounded, with history of New Zealand as well. Big exhibit on the America's Cup, and next to rugby it is the national sport. After I came out, I saw the kiosk for my sailing trip and they were selling tickets for a different sailing trip. Apparently the one I'd signed up for entailed being part of the crew — they have a lower wind-speed criteria as they are relying on tourists to help. So I signed up for the lower-key tour (and bought some rain gear).
We get on the boat and the captain says sustained winds at 33 knots — the criteria is 35 so we are good to go. He then says we are wearing lifejackets — first time he's done that on this cruise. We get out of the harbour and it is much smoother than expected. He has the main sail halfway up and says if we do OK he'll put it all the way up and we'll go over on our side at 15 knots. But immediately about half the passengers insist on standing up and walking around to take pictures — so the main sail was never unleashed. Good trip with sun and rain, which created a great rainbow. The picture doesn't do it justice.
The night kayak trip was to find glowing plankton. I was a bit nervous with all the winds it would be rough and cold, but the guide took us to a protected cove and the wind wasn't bad and the waves were manageable. For 65-degree air temp and 70-degree water temp and off-and-on rain — it wasn't too bad (glad I got the rain gear). The sky alternated between clouds and clear with views of the Milky Way and a crescent moon. So pretty spectacular — except for one thing. The glowing plankton were not what I expected. You had to put your hand in the water and splash, and then they would spark. Like seeing fireflies. No glowing waves or even glowing water. They advised not to bring your camera/phone as it is hard to photograph — and they usually lost a phone or two per trip because people's hands were wet and the phone would slip. Hard to rate — it was a great experience but I didn't see what I expected.
In planning my last day (flight was at 7pm) — either a bike ride or a ferry to a volcano and hike to the top. After checking weather, frequency of wind-related cancellations, and triple-checking the hike duration so I could make the earliest ferry back — I went with the hike. Glad I did as I got a great weather day. The signage indicated it was 1 hour each way — I was first off the boat and hustled up in 45 minutes, went around the crater rim, and headed back down. Although sunny at the top, you could see rain all around.
Rangitoto Island is a new volcano — formed just 600 years ago. The trail was mostly lava rock and I was focused on not falling, because lava rock hurts. I was ahead of schedule and taking my time when I caught my heel on a stairstep, jamming my Achilles. Didn't hurt but felt weird — so I took it real slow, caught the first ferry back, and had a stress-free afternoon. Off to Houston for a layover and hoping I have time to get a Whataburger at the airport.
"Between the South Island, North Island, and Tasmania — I would rate the North Island 3rd. It is nice, but if you make it this far, the South Island is one of the most spectacular places I have ever been."
